Power Supply Wattage

A 400-watt switching FSP200-60SV PC Power Supply will not necessarily use more power than a 250-watt supply. A larger supply may be needed if you use every available slot on the motherboard or every available drive bay in the personal computer case. It is not a good idea to have a 250-watt supply if you have 250 watts total in devices, since the supply should not be loaded to 100 percent of its capacity.

According to PC Power & Cooling, Inc., some power consumption values ​​(in watts) for common items in a personal computer are:

Accelerated Graphics Port (AGP) card = 20 to 30W

Peripheral Component Interconnect (PCI) card = 5W

small computer system interface (SCSI) PCI card = 20 to 25W

network interface card = 4W

50X CD-ROM drive = 10 to 25W

RAM = 10W per 128M

5200 RPM Integrated Drive Electronics (IDE) hard disk drive = 5 to 11W

7200 RPM IDE hard disk drive = 5-15W

Motherboard (without CPU or RAM) = 20 to 30W

550 MHz Pentium III = 30W

733 MHz Pentium III = 23.5W

300 MHz Celeron = 18W

600 MHz Athlon = 45W

FSP200-60SV PC Power Supply of the same form factor (“form factor” refers to the actual shape of the motherboard) are typically differentiated by the wattage they supply and the length of the warranty.

Power Supply Improvements

Recent motherboard and chipset improvements permit the user to monitor the revolutions per minute (RPM) of the power supply fan via BIOS and a Windows application supplied by the motherboard manufacturer. New designs offer fan control so that the fan only runs the speed needed, depending on cooling needs.

Recent designs in Web servers include power supplies that offer a spare supply that can be exchanged while the other FSP200-60SV PC Power Supply is in use. Some new computers, particularly those designed for use as servers, provide redundant power supplies. This means that there are two or more power supplies in the system, with one providing power and the other acting as a backup. The backup supply immediately takes over in the event of a failure by the primary supply. Then, the primary supply can be exchanged while the other power supply is in use.

FSP FSP200-60SV Power Supply

Power Supply Standardization

ver time, there have been at least six different standard  FSP160-60SAV PC Power Supply for personal computers. Recently, the industry has settled on using ATX-based power supplies. ATX is an industry specification that means the power supply has the physical characteristics to fit a standard ATX case and the electrical characteristics to work with an ATX motherboard.

PC FSP160-60SAV PC Power Supply cables use standardized, keyed connectors that make it difficult to connect the wrong ones. Also, fan manufacturers often use the same connectors as the power cables for disk drives, allowing a fan to easily obtain the 12 volts it needs. Color -coded wires and industry standard connectors make it possible for the consumer to have many choices for a replacement power supply.

Advanced Power Management (APM) offers a set of five different states that your system can be in. It was developed by Microsoft and Intel for PC users who wish to conserve power. Each system component, including the operating system, basic input / output system (BIOS), motherboard and attached devices all need to be APM-compliant to be able to use this feature. Should you wish to disable APM because you suspect it is using up system resources or causing a conflict, the best way to do this is in the BIOS. That way, the operating system will not try to reinstall it, which could happen if it were disabled only in the software.

FSP FSP160-60SAV Power Supply

How to switch a power supply

Prior to 1980 or so, FSP160-60SAV PC Power Supply tended to be heavy and bulky. They used large, heavy transformers and huge capacitors (some as large as soda cans) to convert line voltage at 120 volts and 60 hertz into 5 volts and 12 volts DC.

The switching power supplies used today are much smaller and lighter. They convert the 60-Hertz (Hz, or cycles per second) current to a much higher frequency, meaning more cycles per second. This conversion enables a small, lightweight transformer in the power supply to do the actual voltage step-down from 110 volts (or 220 in certain countries) to the voltage needed by the particular computer component. The higher-frequency AC current provided by a switcher supply is also easier to rectify and filter compared to the original 60-Hz AC line voltage, reducing the variances in voltage for the sensitive electronic components in the computer.

A switcher power supply draws only the power it needs from the AC line. The typical voltages and current provided by a FSP160-60SAV PC Power Supply are shown on the label on a power supply.

Switcher technology is also used to make AC from DC, as found in many of the automobile power inverters used to run AC appliances in an automobile and in uninterruptible FSP160-60SAV PC Power Supply. Switcher technology in automotive power inverters changes the direct current from the auto battery into alternating current. The transformer uses alternating current to make the transformer in the inverter step the voltage up to that of household appliances (120 VAC).

FSP FSP160-60SAV Power Supply

 

Power Supplies

If there is any one component that is absolutely vital to the operation of a computer, it is the FSP200-60SV PC Power Supply. Without it, a computer is just an inert box full of plastic and metal. The power supply converts the alternating current (AC) line from your home to the direct current (DC) needed by the personal computer. In this article, we’ll learn how PC power supplies work and what the wattage ratings mean.

In a personal computer (PC), the power supply is the metal box usually found in a corner of the case. The power supply is visible from the back of many systems because it contains the power-cord receptacle and the cooling fan.

FSP200-60SV PC Power Supply, often referred to as “switching power supplies”, use switcher technology to convert the AC input to lower DC voltages The typical voltages supplied are.:

3.3 volts

5 volts

12 volts

The 3.3- and 5-volts are typically used by digital circuits, while the 12-volt is used to run motors in disk drives and fans. The main specification of a power supply is in watts. A watt is the product of the voltage in volts and the current in amperes or amps. If you have been around PCs for many years, you probably remember that the original PCs had large red toggle switches that had a good bit of heft to them. When you turned the PC on or off, you knew you were doing it. These switches actually controlled the flow of 120 volt power to the power supply.

Today you turn on the power with a little push button, and you turn off the machine with a menu option. These capabilities were added to standard FSP200-60SV PC Power Supply several years ago. The operating system can send a signal to the power supply to tell it to turn off. The push button sends a 5-volt signal to the power supply to tell it when to turn on. The power supply also has a circuit that supplies 5 volts, called VSB for “standby voltage” even when it is officially “off “, so that the button will work.

FSP FSP200-60SV Power Supply

How to Check a Power Supply

The FSP FSP400-60THN PC Power Supply is often forgotten when it comes to diagnosing computer problems, but testing your power supply first can save you a lot of troubleshooting headaches down the road. If your computer experiences Blue Screen of Death crashes, hard drive errors, or just plain won ‘t boot, you may be dealing with a faulty power supply. Run these quick tests before you start swapping out expensive hardware.

Part 1 of 2: Testing if it Powers On

1.Shut down your computer. Once the computer has been shut down, or if it is not starting to begin with, flip the switch on the back of the power supply. Unplug the power supply from the outlet.

2.Open your computer case. Disconnect the power supply cables from all of the components inside the case. Follow each cable from the power supply to the component to make sure that everything is properly unplugged.

Make note of where everything was plugged into for when you reassemble the case.

3.Make a paper clip tester. You can use a paper clip to help test your power supply and trick it into thinking that it has been switched on. To do this, straighten a paperclip and then bend it into a “U” shape.

This paperclip will act as the pins that are inserted into the power supply that give it the “Power ON” signal.

4.Find the 20/24 Pin connector that normally attaches to your computer’s motherboard. It is typically the largest connector for the power supply. [

5.Find the green pin and a black pin (pins 15 & 16). You will be inserting the ends of the paperclip into the green pin (there should be only one) and a neighboring black pin. Before you do this, double check to make sure that the power supply is completely disconnected from any power outlet, that it is switched off, and that it is not connected to any computer components.

The green pin is typically pin 15 on a pin chart.

6.Insert the paperclip. Once you have placed the paperclip into each of the pins, place the cable somewhere where it will not be disturbed. Plug the FSP FSP400-60THN PC Power Supply back into the outlet, and flip the switch in the back.

7.Check the fan. Once the power supply is receiving power, you should be able to hear and / or see a fan moving. This will let you know that the power supply is at least working. If the power supply does not turn on at all, double check your pins (after unplugging) and try again. If it still does not turn on, then it is most likely dead. [2]

This test will not tell you if the power supply is functioning as it should, just that it is turning on. You will need to perform the next test to ensure that it is outputting correctly.

Part 2 of 2: Testing the Output

1.Check the output through software. If your computer is functional and you can load your operating system, try using software to check your power supply’s output. SpeedFan is a freeware program that will read your computer’s diagnostics and report back your temperatures and voltage’s. Check the readouts to ensure that they fall within accepted tolerances.

If your computer does not work, skip to the next step.

2.Shut down the computer. Unplug the FSP FSP400-60THN PC Power Supply from the outlet. Turn off the power switch on the back of the power supply. Open the computer and disconnect all of the components from the power supply. Follow the cables from the power supply to each component to ensure that everything has been properly disconnected.

3.Test the power supply with a power supply testing unit. These are available online and from computer stores, and are not very expensive. Find the 20/24 pin connector on the power supply. This is typically the largest cable for the power supply .

Connect the power supply testing unit to the 20/24 pin connector.

Plug the power supply back into the outlet and turn it on. Your power supply should turn on automatically and your power supply tester will light up.

Some power supply testers require you to turn on the power supply using a switch or button on the tester. Others will turn on automatically.

. Check the voltages The 20/24 pin connector will have multiple readouts, but there are 4 essential measurements you need to look for:

+3.3 VDC

+5 VDC

+12 VDC

-12 VDC

Ensure that the voltages are within normal accepted tolerances. +3.3, +5, +12 Can all be within +/- 5%. The -12 can be within +/- 10%. If any of the readings are outside that range, than the power supply is bad and needs to be replaced.

Test the other connectors. Once you’ve verified that the main connector is outputting power properly, test each of the other connector cables one by one. Unplug and turn off the power supply between each test.

4.Test the FSP FSP400-60THN PC Power Supply with a multimeter. Straighten a paperclip and then bend it into a “U” shape. Find the green pin on the 20/24 pin connector. Plug the paperclip into the green pin (pin 15) and into one of the neighboring black pins. This will trick the connector into thinking it’s plugged into the motherboard. [3]

Plug the power supply back in and turn it on.

Find a pinout chart for your power supply. This will let you know which pins provide which voltages.

Set your multimeter to the VBDC setting. If your multimeter does not auto-range, set the range to 10V.

Connect the negative probe of the multimeter to a ground (black) pin on the connector.

Connect the positive probe to the first pin that you want to test. Make a note of the voltage displayed.

Check the voltages to make sure they fall within the tolerance threshold. If any of the voltages are outside of the tolerance range, then the power supply is defective.

Repeat the process for each of the peripheral connectors. Refer to the specific pinout charts for each connector to see which pins to test.

5.Reassemble your computer. Once you’ve tested and verified all of the power connectors, you can reassemble your computer. Ensure that all of your devices are properly plugged back in, and that all of the motherboard connectors are properly seated. Once you have finished reassembling the computer, you can try powering it on.

If you are still having computer errors, or your computer will not start, move on to other troubleshooting steps. The first place to check will be your motherboard.

FSP FSP400-60THN Power Supply

How power supplies work

Even though FSP FSP180-50NIV-H PC Power Supply units are the most critical part of almost every electronic device, being a component absolutely vital to their operation, they rarely are given the attention they deserve. Almost no technology equipment can operate without them since electronic devices can not operate using the utility grid AC voltage, which also varies in level and frequency depending on your position on the planet.

There are more than eight types of power supplies currently available; in this article we are going to focus on only the two types available for household and business equipment: linear and switching power supplies.

Even though power supply units are the most critical part of almost every electronic device, being a component absolutely vital to their operation, they rarely are given the attention they deserve. Almost no technology equipment can operate without them since electronic devices can not operate using the utility grid AC voltage, which also varies in level and frequency depending on your position on the planet.

There are more than eight types of FSP FSP180-50NIV-H PC Power Supply currently available; in this article we are going to focus on only the two types available for household and business equipment: linear and switching power supplies.

Several people may believe the power supplies are limited to computer applications. That is incorrect since almost every piece of technology need a power supply to operate. Some examples include and are not limited to your phone charger, your TV and your alarm clock. As we mentioned before, no electronic equipment can operate on AC voltage. It is the power supply’s job to convert AC voltage to another form, suitable for the equipment. Or, to be even more accurate, the definition of a power supply is that “it is an apparatus designed to convert one form of electric energy to another “.

The vast majority of users are simply not aware of the presence of power supplies because they are integrated into the equipment. Most of them are not replaceable because those devices have no expandability or upgradeability and are (hopefully!) Designed to exceed the product’s lifetime. For example, you can not replace the power supply of your TV because there is no way to upgrade or expand your TV and force it to require more power, meaning that ultimately there is no reason to perform a power supply upgrade. Computers are an entirely different matter; they are fully expandable and customizable, meaning that not only each and every one of them has different power needs but that the needs of every single computer can be altered several times during its operational lifetime.

A FSP FSP180-50NIV-H PC Power Supply transforming the utility grid AC voltage to DC voltage for the equipment to use must perform certain functions at the highest possible efficiency and at the lowest possible cost The basic functions usually are:

Rectification – Convert the input AC voltage to DC voltage.

Voltage transformation – Adjust the supplied voltage to the required levels.

Filtering – Smoothen the ripple of the supplied voltage.

Regulation – Control the supplied voltage regardless of line, load and / or temperatures changes.

Isolation – Electrically isolate the input voltage source from the output.

Protection – Prevent any damaging power phenomena from reaching or take effect at the output.

FSP FSP180-50NIV-H Power Supply

How to choose a power supply for your PC

Ask any good computer technician what the most important component is in your PC and the likely answer will be the power supply (also known as the PSU, or power supply unit).

The FSP200-50PLA   is designed to take an input voltage from mains power (here in Australia we use 240V) and then reduce and regulate the output to 12V or less, to power the components inside the PC. Looking at the power supply you will see a range of different plug connectors, designed to power such things as motherboards, hard drives, optical drives, and graphics cards.

Most manufacturers will give a power rating to their particular PSU models such as 500 Watt or 850 Watt. Most people tend to think that the power rating of the PSU is all they need to know, but this is not the case. There are very good quality high efficiency power supplies on the market, but, conversely, there are many poor quality PSUs on the market also. Some cheap and nasty PSUs are lucky to achieve a sustained output of half their claimed power rating, meaning that your new 500W PSU may indeed only be capable of 250W of continuous output. Certainly not enough to power your new high-end gaming system!

In an effort to rationalise the labelling of PSUs and to promote energy efficiency, industry leaders devised the 80 PLUS rating system as far back as 2004. The 80 PLUS idea created a list of efficiency specifications that a PSU model needed to achieve across a range of their rated power loads. Any FSP200-50PLA  submitted for testing which was able to meet these requirements was then awarded an 80 PLUS rating and is allowed to advertise this certification, as well as use the 80 PLUS certified logo. In early 2008 the 80 PLUS standard was revised to cater for newer, more energy efficient models and the 80 PLUS Bronze, Silver and Gold categories were created.

Some unscrupulous companies have used the 80 PLUS logos in their advertising or on the product packaging, when in fact their PSU has not been tested or certified. At DCA Computers we see such impostors on a regular basis. The eager vendor will put his hand on his heart and swear the unit has 80 PLUS certification while holding up a PSU that is adorned with a bright gold 80 PLUS sticker. Apart from the PSU being not much heavier than the cardboard carton it emerged from, it’s hard to tell the difference. When the PSU is fitted into a tower case, it then becomes a more challenging ruse. The only way to be absolutely sure that you are getting the genuine article is to check the validity of any certification claims by going to the following website. This site lists all manufacturers and models which have had certification status awarded to them. So far 2824 PSUs have been awarded 80 PLUS or higher certification, so there are definitely plenty of quality choices currently available on the market.

Apart from quality and efficiency certifications, the next major consideration when choosing a power supply is the maximum power output. Power requirements for modern PCs can vary greatly. Entry-level machines with integrated graphics can consume as little as 200W, whereas high-end gaming PCs with multiple graphics cards and multiple HDD setups can require as much as 1000W or more to run them.

A basic way of determining your  FSP200-50PLA  requirements is to add the power requirements of the components it contains. CPU and graphics card manufacturers publish power draw figures for their products. CPUs generally range between 45-95W. Graphics cards vary widely in power draw , with entry-level cards suitable for home theatre use consuming as little as 25W, whereas high-end gaming cards can draw a whopping 300W or even more for some of the recently released dual chip cards such as the Geforce GTX 590 and the Radeon 6990 .

Mechanical HDDs draw approx 20W each, Solid-state drives as little as 3W. Do not forget to factor in the efficiency rating of the PSU you are intending to use. An 80 PLUS certified 500W PSU will only deliver 80% of its rated output ;. in this case, 400W It’s always a good thing to add a little more than you think you need, just for good measure If your anticipated power draw figure is 380W, for example, I would be inclined to go up a level or. two to a 550W or 600W 80 PLUS certified or higher PSU. This also covers you should you wish to add another HDD down the track, or upgrade your graphics card a level or two. Just remember, a power supply will only output as much power as the components in your PC are drawing, so having a higher rated PSU does not mean that you will be using more electricity.

The final decision to consider is whether to pay a little extra and purchase a modular power supply. Most high-end PSUs are modular as standard.

A modular FSP200-50PLA has a collection of cables that plug in to the body of the PSU, and only need to be added as required. A traditional power supply has a large collection of cables, with a range of different end plugs, all hard wired into the body of the PSU. This can often create a large spaghetti-like mess of unused cables cluttering the inside of your PC. A good technician will usually try to tidy all the excess cabling, as it can impede air flow through the PC case and restrict cooling, or even worse, loose cabling can lodge in cooling fans, jamming them completely, and leading to overheating issues. A modular power supply helps solve these problems by letting you plug in and use the minimum number of cables necessary to power the components inside a PC.

Hopefully the information presented here will empower you make an informed decision, when next it comes time to consider the purchase of this most critical system component. A good quality power supply is the first building block of a good quality PC.

FSP FSP200-50PLA Power Supply

Silent PC Power Supplies

Introduction

Noise has been a growing issue for desktop computers for some time now. The primary source of noise within computer systems is fans used to cool down the internal components. FX700-GLN  typically have had one or two fans inside of them to cool down the internal components used to convert the voltage from the wall outlet to the lower voltage power for the electronics. The problem now is that personal computers are being placed in environments such as the home theater that are meant to be quiet. Because of this, more and more power supplies are now being labeled as silent.

The Sound of Silence

One of the first things consumers should be aware of is that a part being marketed as silent may still produce noise. All sound levels are recorded in decibels (dBA). The higher the decibels, the louder the noise. The human ear has a difficult time noticing certain sound frequencies and very low decibels. Because of this, many manufacturers will label devices as silent even though they do generate noise. The typical definition of silent by a manufacturer can be anything from around 20dBA to 30dBA. For the sake of comparison , whispering is roughly 20dBA while 60dBA is typical of a normal conversation.

The reason that the companies are able to market these low noise  FX700-GLN   as silent is that these decibel levels are very difficult to detect over the noise of other components inside of the computer such as the CPU cooling fan, hard drives and even the CD or DVD drive. It is important to check the specifications of a power supply to see what the actual decibel rating of any fans that might be in the power supply for how much noise it might actually produce.

With the increase in items such as temperature controlled fans, improved fan bearings and larger fans, many of the power supplies on the market produce very little noise. Most units that produce less than 25dBA in noise are still quite acceptable for computers in low noise environments such as a home theater PC.

Fanless Power Supplies

The most recent push for silent computing is the development of the fanless power supply. These units opt to use passive cooling instead of fans to move air through the unit. The construction of fanless units will vary depending upon the manufacturer. Most of them employ aluminum instead of steel for the basic case because of its better heat dissipation. This is about all they may share in common. Some designs have holes drilled throughout the case to increase airflow, others have large fins on the exterior to increase the surface area and then others have heatsinks that protrude out the back of the unit.

The obvious advantage to a fanless design is the lack of any fan noise, but there are some drawbacks to such units. Typically a fanless power supply has a much lower wattage rating over more traditional designs. This is due to the increased levels of heat produces as the wattage of the unit increases. Previous units were found in the 350 to 400W range, but now some are available up to 500W and up. Regardless, its best not to use fanless units for demanding computers such as a running top of the line or dual graphics cards.

The larger issue though is the life of the FX700-GLN  . Heat has a detrimental affect on the life of components, which is why active cooling is prevalent in computer systems. Because there are no fans moving air through the fanless designs, they tend to get much hotter than traditional units. This tends to result in shorter lifespans for fanless designs. When looking at buying a fanless design, check the MTBF of the unit as well as the temperature it is rated at. For example, 80,000 hours is pretty good, but it is much better if it is rated with that life at 50C than at 25C.

If you are going to look at using a fanless power supply, be sure to check the size and design of the unit. The designs used in some of the fanless units can prevent them from being used with some desktop PC cases. This is generally an issues for any power supply that tends to use heatsink fins that protrude from the read of the unit and outside of the case.

Conclusions

There has been a lot of development in terms of reducing noise within computer power supplies and this has been heavily driven by the movement towards multimedia computers in places such as a home theater. If you want to have a low noise computer, shopping for a power supply has a large number of options. Hopefully this articles has shed some light on what the industry deems as silent and what types of units you might want to consider when putting together a low noise system.

FSP FX700-GLN Power Supply

What Happens to a CPU When the Fan Dies?

A CPU’s operating temperature will rise if the cooling fan breaks, dramatically increasing the chance of hardware failure. Stock modern computer CPUs use a two-part CPU cooler that features a heatsink directly connected to the CPU and a fan that cools the heatsink. The fan’s role is secondary, but it is of vital importance in preventing the CPU from overheating: the heatsink will not dissipate heat fast enough to prevent damage to the CPU without an operational fan.

Overheat

CPUs with dead fans will overheat. Computers usually have built-in safe guards to shut down or slow down the CPU when it gets too hot to prevent it from breaking. However, if the computer’s safeguards fail or do not kick in fast enough the CPU can get above its maximum operating temperature and literally burn out. The CPU can get so hot it will ignite, destroying itself beyond repair. A fried CPU can also take down the motherboard and other connected components with it when it goes. The CPU will break if the computer is continually used with a dead ACER 3BZF1TATN04 CPU Fan.

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When the Fan Dies

If the CPU fan fails, shut down the computer immediately to prevent hardware damage Running a normal system shut down may not be fast enough:. In this instance it can be safer to shut down via holding the power button or pulling the plug Hard shutdowns. run the risk of damaging data, but leaving the system on even just a little longer to shut down via normal methods runs a high risk of destroying the computer.

Intel and AMD Defense Mechanisms

Intel and AMD CPUs will produce error messages and try to shut down if the ACER 3BZF1TATN04 CPU Fan. fails. Intel CPUs will drop the CPU’s clock speed to prevent it from going above its operating temperature range. These CPU defense mechanisms are designed to prevent the computer from breaking in the event of CPU cooling failure. If you turn the computer back on, it will display an error message and cut power in a few seconds to prevent CPU damage. Repeatedly trying to power on the system again can damage the CPU as the CPU can get above its maximum operating temperature in seconds without sufficient cooling.

Replace

A dead ACER 3BZF1TATN04 CPU Fan. should be replaced immediately after failure and the computer should not be used again until a functional cooling unit is installed. It’s typical to replace the entire cooling unit when the fan fails. Additionally, the thermal cooling compound that bridges the physical connection between the heat sink and the CPU needs to be replaced when installing a new cooling unit You can install the new unit yourself or bring it to a professional:. incorrect cooling unit installation can also break the CPU A CPU that’s powered on without cooling. or poorly installed cooling can ignite in seconds.

ACER 3BZF1TATN04 CPU Fan

How to install a new CPU cooler – step by step

Choosing the right model and installing it properly

If your laptop quite literally never fails to make itself heard, you might want to take a look at the usual suspect for persistent fan noise:. Your CPU cooler Here’s a detailed, visual guide on how to replace it with something better and what to keep in mind.

 Be it turbo mode, hyper-threading or even multiple cores -. Modern CPUs have come a long way since the inception of very first microprocessor And though ever smaller manufacturing methods have greatly helped to keep temperature emissions in check, the corresponding development of “boxed “CPU coolers has been somewhat less spectacular. Even today, neither Intel nor AMD bother to equip their processors with anything more than what is absolutely required, leading to unnecessarily high temperatures and relentless fan noises, slowly chipping away at the sanity of laptop users in those midsummer days.

 It is probably common knowledge that the most effective and permanent solution to this torment is to upgrade to a bigger and more sophisticated ACER 23.AT902.001 CPU Fan . Somewhat less obvious, however, are the exact steps on how to do so. Here’s what you need to keep in . mind and how to make the operation go smoothly See also: How to upgrade a PCs processor

Choosing the right CPU cooler

In order to find a compatible model, you will first have to find out what kind of socket your CPU uses. This can be easily accomplished by downloading and installing the nifty hardware utility CPU-Z. Fire it up and look for the field “Package “under the tab” CPU “This will give you the exact specification of your mainboard socket -. for example” Socket 775 LGA “Note it down and make sure that your future cooler supports this particular format (more expensive coolers are often compatible with. multiple different sockets).

The coolers themselves can come in many different shapes and forms, typically starting as low as £ 5 and going all the way up to £ 70 depending on the quality, manufacturer and popularity. Which one you should choose differs from socket to socket and is ultimately up to you. It’s almost a given however, that anything beyond £ 15 will easily upgrade your stock cooler. Obviously, we recommend reading some reviews to find out which one works best for your specific system and budget.

 Additionally, size matters -. At least in terms of cooling While professional fan models can easily be twice the size as their boxed counterparts and might seem excessive at first, they are much more efficient at dissipating heat away from the processor due to their greater amount of metal surface -. also called “heatsink” Thus, if you are planning on buying a rather “prominent” cooler, you might want to compare its measurements (particularly the height) with the actual space of your laptop case to make sure it fits inside.

Note: Though the boxing of most coolers typically includes a small amount of thermal paste, its quality can diverge wildly, thus potentially mitigating the cooling performance If you want to go the extra mile and make the most out of your new cooler, see if. you can you can get your hands on some high-quality ceramic or silver-based thermal compound (particularly fancy mixtures might even include diamond dust).

Also take a look at: Overclock your CPU, GPU and RAM

How to replace your ACER 23.AT902.001 CPU Fan

To get started, shut your system down and flick the switch on the back of your power supply to “Off” (which can itself be accessed from back of your PC). As this is going to be a fairly elaborate endeavour, it’s a good idea to remove all cables from your computer and lay it down an an flat and well lit surface for easy access.

Also, make sure to ground yourself on a metal object before proceeding (such as your radiator), and try to steer clear from carpets (and other objects that might charge you up again) for the time being.

1. Open your case from the side to get a good look at the insides of your PC. Many coolers require the installation of a backplate on the other side of your motherboard to stabilize them. If this applies to your model, you will likely have to remove the motherboard itself to reach the right spot – start by removing potential screws that might hold your graphics card in place If not, jump to step 7..

2. While older models can be pulled out from their PCI slot without any further mechanisms, most modern graphics cards require you to pull a small plastic level on its side. Some may even be connected to your power supply directly with one or two 6- pin connectors. Unplug them and remove the card.

3. Next, look for the screws that are keeping your motherboard attached to the laptop case. Simply, check the borders to find the lot of them (the last one is normally located just below your CPU in the middle). Try to loosen them all at roughly the same rate until they can be removed.

4. Unplug all cables connected to your motherboard that are interfering with the removal. If you are not sure whether or not you can reconnect them properly later on, its a good idea to make a photo while everything is still in place. Marked in our photo: The 24-pin and 4-pin power supply connectors and the SATA slots.

5. Typically, there are nine screws to be removed from ATX motherboards, though this may vary with other form factors. Make sure you got them all and put them someplace safe for the time being.

6. Carefully lift your motherboard out of the case. It’s up to you whether or not you want to remove all cables from the motherboard, as this might overcomplicate the re-installation for dexterous tinkerers. For maximum comfort, it’s obviously better to do so and to take the motherboard someplace else.

7. A close up of our old ACER 23.AT902.001 CPU Fan -. Already a bit dusty Notice the small size of the fan blades.

8. Look for the small 4-pin cable that extends from the cooler to the motherboard. Gently waggle it off without bending the pins.

9. Next, you will have to remove the cooler itself. See if there’s a small lever at the side to push down. Depending on your respective model, the exact method of removal might differ. If there’s no lever to be found, you can typically find four push-pins at each corner.

10. After pressing down the lever, release the metal clamp from both sides of the cooler. If you are dealing with push-pins instead, try turning your motherboard around and see if your can squeeze the two halfes of each pin together in order to loosen it.

11. On the left: Our new “Scythe Mugen II” (about £ 35); on the right: The old boxed cooler.

12. As you will have noticed, your CPU is now finally brought to light. The greasy paste on top of it is a thermal compound that improves the heat conductivity between the CPU and the cooler, thus improving the cooling performance (air alone would be significantly less effective). Refrain from touching it and ignore it for now.

13. If your new cooler requires you the install a backplate onto your motherboard, turn it around and do so.

14. Additionally, take a look into the manufacturer’s manual and see if there are instructions as to how the cooler needs to be modified before being placed onto your respective socket. This typically includes assembling the mounting device in a particular fashion.

15. Attach the fan to the heatsink. This is often accomplished with the help of metal brackets.

16. Time to get back to the CPU. It is highly advisable to remove the rest of the old paste before applying a new dose. Carefully wipe the bulk of it away with a clean piece of cloth.

17. Next, take another piece of cloth and slightly moisten it with pure or rubbing alcohol (at least 70% +). Gently sweep the surface of the CPU with it a couple of times to remove all residues. Take care not to accidentally touch the surface, as this will likely leave greasy fingerprints.

18. Apply a tiny dose of fresh thermal paste – a bit smaller than the size of a pea -. On top of your CPU and evenly spread it with the help aa strong sheet of paper (business cards will do) The idea is to thoroughly cover the whole surface while keeping the layer as thin as possible to ensure ideal cooling conditions.

19. If present, make sure to remove the plastic foliage covering the underside of your ACER 23.AT902.001 CPU Fan. Again, try not to accidentally touch the metal surface with your fingers after doing so.

20. Put all necessary backplate screws in place and rotate the cooler until it matches their position. Gently lower it onto the CPU, ideally without twisting it around too much once it is has made contact. Tighten the screws connecting the cooler to the backplate / motherboard.

21. Once the cooler is firmly connected to the motherboard, make sure it pushes the air out of the rear of your laptop case to optimize airflow (whether you place the fan before or behind the heatsink is up to your model and preference).

22. As a final step, put your motherboard back into the PC case and reattach all necessary screws as well as the cables and PCI cards that you previously removed. Do not forget to connect the fan power plug to the 4-pin connector on the motherboard before closing it up again.

ACER 23.AT902.001 CPU Fan